Complete first draft

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Ariejan de Vroom 2017-09-12 14:40:58 +02:00
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@ -108,17 +108,60 @@ of the scope output.
{{< youtube rtnBzLxHoA0 >}} {{< youtube rtnBzLxHoA0 >}}
This means one (or two) of two things: This is good. I now have a provable and reproducable fault condition. The output of the `SBR` channel will get
a load of DC voltage during start up and seems to have trouble stabilizing when hot. Cooling down resolves the issue.
The `SBR` channel is not in use, so any heat it takes is from the heatsink.
1. There's a bad capacitor on the `SBR` amp board Now as to what is causing this and how to fix it!
2. The output transistor(s) are faulty when warm
Next step: take out the board and check the capacitors.
![](/img/denon-avr4520-sbr-amp-board.jpg) ![](/img/denon-avr4520-sbr-amp-board.jpg)
I always mark the capacitors with a permanent marker by ticking one side (e.g. ) Above is the `SBR` amp board taken out of the amp. I have three things I'd like to check:
1. The 1/4W and more resistors (basicall all non SMD resistors on top). I'd like to check for any shorts, open loops, or a deviation in resistance from the spec?
2. All electrolytic capacitors: how does their capacitance and ESR compare to the spec?
3. Power darlington transistors: any obvious shorts? How do they react to heat?
I always measure resistors in circuit first. This works fine most of the time and when I get a weird
read out I can desolder them when I'm working on the capacitors. All of them seem fine.
Next I desolder one (or two) legs of each electrolytic capacitor. I always mark their orientation in
relation to the board before taking them off. Some PCBs have polarity indicators, some do not. All
electrolytics measure within their specifications for capacitance and ESR. So no issues there.
That leaves the darlington transistor pair. My gues is that they start to misbehave when hot. Keep in
mind that the `SBR` channel is not used in my stereo configuration, so they do not produce any heat
themselves. They get heat from `FR` that's mounted on the same heatsink. The plan to test these
darlingtons is simple:
1. Run them amp until it gets hot
2. Try to get the amp hot enough to get into the DC Protection mode.
3. Freeze spray each of the darlingtons to see if it resolves the problem
Freezing the `DHCT-A3` has no effect on power protection. Freezing the `DHCT-C3` however makes
the problem go away.
![](/img/denon-avr4520-darlingtons.jpg)
With that, I've narrowed the problem down to `Q808`, a `DHCT-C3` darlington transistor.
## Repair ## Repair
As with almost every project, diagnosign the issue is much harder and time consuming than the
actual repair. The process is quite simple:
1. Order a new pair DHCT-A3/C3 (they are sold in pairs)
2. Replace both `Q808` and `Q809` with the new pair
Done.
## Conclusion
Replacing the DHCT-A3/C3 darlington transistor pair has resolved the power protection mode
issues. I've been running the amp in my living room for a few days now and not seen any
issue at all.
So, for the cost of a used entry-level AV receiver and €40 in parts and shipping I've got
an almost brand new Denon AVR-4520 top-of-the-line AV Receiver. :-)
[hifiengine]: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/denon/avr-4520.shtml [hifiengine]: https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/denon/avr-4520.shtml

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